Keweenaw Peninsula, Michigan (2024)

Boldly splicing the waters of Lake Superior, Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula is wild, remote, and historic. This 1,400 square-mile feature of the Upper Peninsula saw one of America's first mineral booms, contains 40 acres of wilderness per person (including several state/national parks and over 50 waterfalls), supports The Great Lake State's northernmost settlement, and has fostered a quirky, global community, thanks to its storied past, and enticing future. A recent road trip brought me to many natural and cultural attractions, but with 22 Keweenaw Heritage Sites and hundreds of historical structures, I still have lots to look forward to on my return journey. For now, here's a crash course on a seriously-overlooked region of the United States: the Keweenaw Peninsula.

History

The Keweenaw Peninsula is the ancestral and current homeland of the Ojibwe (also spelled Ojibwa) tribe, who are part of a larger group of Indigenous people known as the Anishinaabe (one of several accepted spellings). In fact, Keweenaw (pronounced Key-wa-na) is an Ojibwe term meaning "portage," or "a place portage is made." Long before the broader region gained its moniker, Copper Country, the land's substantial mineral stores were being mined by some of modern-day Michigan's earliest inhabitants. Evidence of such activities dates back to at least 3,000 B.C., but some sources posit that Indigenous people have been mining, crafting, and trading Keweenaw copper (which was formed by one of the oldest and largest lava flows the planet has ever seen) for over 7,000 years.

This substantial stockpile of pure elemental copper later fostered one of the first industrial mining operations in the United States. Thanks to Douglas Houghton's geological survey of the Keweenaw Peninsula in 1840, the Copper Rush took off just three years later. For reference, this was six years ahead of California's famed Gold Rush. The malleable metal in question was instrumental to the nation's Industrial Revolution.

Scores of communities sprouted around the mines and persisted even after the boom fizzled out in the mid-20th century. In the end, an estimated 10.5 billion pounds of copper was mined from Keweenaw sites. Following the mining bust, industries turned to logging (with a rather overzealous flair that we'll dig into shortly). Nowadays, tourism is taking its turn in the limelight. Ultimately, the lasting waves of immigrants from dozens of nations, combined with the existing Indigenous foundation, left the Keweenaw Peninsula with a proud, palpably eclectic culture. All of this is overlaid by stunning natural beauty, making this part of Michigan widely appealing.

Geography

The northeastward-trending, horn-like landmass known as the Keweenaw Peninsula extends into the south-central portion of Lake Superior from the northwest portion of Michigan's Upper Peninsula. From the unincorporated Copper Harbor at its tip (i.e. Michigan's northernmost community), to the nearly 60,000-acre Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park (i.e. Mighigan's largest) at its base, the Keweenaw Peninsula amounts to 1,400 square miles of terrain and over 300 miles of freshwater shoreline. Along with the largest of the Great Lakes (i.e. the world's second-largest lake), this geographical prominence is bisected by Portage Lake/Portage Canal and has many other inland lakes, bays (with the titular installment being by far the biggest), small mountains, over 50 waterfalls, and hundreds of miles of multi-use trails.

The Standout Communities

Let's explore some of the magnetic communities (and surrounding attractions) that the Keweenaw Peninsula has to offer, starting with...

Houghton/Hanco*ck

Situated smack dab in the middle of the peninsula, along the south-central shoreline of Portage Lake, Houghton is the largest of Keweenaw's cities. It not only serves as an excellent basecamp for the peninsula but also one of America's least-visited national parks: Isle Royale. Intrigued visitors should check out the Isle Royale National Park Mainland Headquarters, located on the east side of the iconic Portage Canal Lift Bridge, or simply grab a ticket for Houghton's Ranger III passenger ferry - a lengthy (i.e. 6 hours one-way) but fruitful voyage.

But don't skip town before exploring Houghton's charming core. College Ave (Hwy 41) is speckled with cafes/eateries, outdoorsy shops, and other little one-off attractions. Those interested in the history and culture of the region should float over to Carnegie Museum of the Keweenaw (also located along the main drag), and budding geologists will want to make for the A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum, which features minerals not only from the state of Michigan and the Great Lakes Region, but the world over.

On the north side of the canal, the sister city of Hanco*ck also delivers some notable attractions. In addition to its own charming downtown, there is the Finnish American Heritage Center and Historical Archive, the Lake Superior-adjacent McLain State Park, and most famously, the Quincy Mine. The latter sits just north of Hanco*ck and was designated as a National Historic Landmark District in 1989. Passersby can join the two-hour tour (above/below ground and aboard an old fashioned cogwheel tram) of what was once the second-largest mine in the Lake Superior region (1880s), and what remains to be the oldest and most-intact smelter in the world from that era. If you're short on time, a self-guided walking tour of the grounds (and most buildings) is also an enriching, and refreshingly autonomous experience.

Calumet

Another ten miles northeast of Quincy Mine, the Calumet National Historic Landmark District (within Calumet Township) awaits. Here, a rustic, yet revitalized downtown compliments the Keweenaw National Historical Park Visitor Center. Get the lay of the land and historical context from enthusiastic park employees, room by room informative exhibits, and even a snazzy video or two. Right across from the Visitor Center sits the Calumet Art Center, and just a few blocks away pedestrians will encounter the Calumet Theatre (an operational opera house built in 1900) and the Copper Country Firefighters History Museum (a red-brick fire station built in 1898 with old-timey fire trucks on display).

For all its triumphs, Calumet also suffered an enormous tragedy. The Italian Hall Memorial Park commemorates the December 24, 1913 disaster that killed 73 people during a crowded union Christmas party (when someone mistakenly yelled "Fire!," causing the attendees to trample one another in a panicked dash for the exit.

On a lighter note, Calumet hosts the delectable Pasty Fest every August. Fun fact: the peninsula is something of a second home (thanks to the workers who immigrated from Cornwall, England) for the Cornish pasty - a dough pocket stuffed with ground meat, potatoes, onions, rutabagas, and (sometimes) carrots, then served with gravy or ketchup (or nothing). Thimbleberry jam is another local specialty.

A Bit More on Keweenaw National Historical Park

When it was established on October 27th, 1992, the Keweenaw National Historical Park set out to do things a little bit differently. This is what's known as a partnership park, meaning that the National Park Service only owns a small percentage of the land/infrastructure, and instead relies on local communities to preserve and promote the many important sites. There are 22 Keweenaw Heritage Site Partners/Sites spread across the peninsula.

Eagle Harbor/Eagle River

Either on the way up, or return trip, be sure to take one of the suggested "spur routes" of the Copper Country Trail National Scenic Byway. North of Calumet, there will be a turn-off for Eagle River and Eagle Harbor (Hwy 26). Along with the two quaint lakefront villages, there are several more heritage sites to enjoy and beaches to savor. Take it slow, for the turnouts come and go in an instant along this narrow, winding road.

The first notable cluster I arrived at was the Eagle River Timber Arch Bridge, Eagle River Falls & Dam, and Eagle River Museum. Here, informative plaques catch visitors up on the history of the community (first settled in the early 1840s) and Douglas Houghton (i.e. Michigan's first state geologist and father of the Copper Rush, who drowned just off shore when he was just 37 years of age), while the chattering falls add ambience.

Next, explore the lengthy, elegant beach at Great Sand Bay and/or nature trail through the George Hite Dunes and Marshes Preserve. The might of Lake Superior and ancient volcanic foundation is quelled by the soft sands and lush treeline, creating a unique contrast not likely to be found outside of the undeveloped sections of the Great Lakes Region.

Eagle Harbor doesn't exactly up the ante in terms of infrastructure, but you won't regret pulling over on Front Street to smell the roses. Snap a mental picture of the quiet harbor and then hoof it over to well-kept Eagle Harbor Lighthouse (built in 1871) and Keweenaw County Historical Society.

Interlude: Brockway Mountain

Just outside of Eagle Harbor, the bumpy but manageable Brockway Mountain Drive shoots skyward towards its namesake summit. Sprawling views of the peninsula's forest-covered apex, Lake Superior, Lake Medora, and on the way down, Copper Harbor, all reward the valiant efforts of your vehicle's shock/brake systems (if my old Ford Transit Connect can hack it, most reasonably-maintained machines should be up to the task).

Copper Harbor

The unincorporated community of Copper Harbor is quirky, remote, and the cherry on top destination after a thorough tour of the Keweenaw Peninsula. There are modest waterfront hotels, a string of eccentric shops, a definitive everyone-knows-everyone vibe, and an infectious sense of adventure. The delightfully rough and tumble aesthetic of, say, Brickside Brewing, is contrasted by the enshrined orderliness of Fort Wilkins State Historic State Park (built in 1844 by the U.S. Army).

As for the adventure aspect, there are multiple passions to indulge in. Those with a Kerouacian itch to scratch can visit the northern terminus pillar of U.S. 41 before proceeding nearly due south for 2,000 miles until reaching Miami, Florida. Alternatively, backcountry buffs can board a ferry to Isle Royale National Park (cutting over two hours off the equivalent journey from Houghton), where 165 miles of hiking trails, 36 rustic campgrounds, world-class paddling opportunities, and some of the most iconic North American mammals (from moose herds to wolf packs) await.

Locally, Copper Harbor has an acclaimed mountain biking scene. In fact, its trail system has achieved the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) "EPIC" status. Because of this, two-wheeled connoisseurs and curious spectators alike flock to the tip of Keweenaw every Labor Day weekend for the annual Copper Harbor Trails Fest.

Finally, if a wooded trail is your happy place, but you prefer a lower-octane outlet, then head for the Estivant Pines Nature Sanctuary. This 570.5-acre (acquired between 1973-2019 in five parcels) preserve contains Michigan's last old-growth white pine stands. Two looped trails bring dendrophiles past 125-foot-tall, 500-year-old giants, as well as seasonal wildflowers, complimentary forest foliage, and upwards of 85 species of birds (including the broad-winged hawk, which migrates through here in high numbers).

As an added bonus, the Keweenaw Peninsula is beginning to catch the eye of Dark Sky tourists. Given its low population density (recall that there are 40 acres of wilderness per person in these parts), many parts of the peninsula are eager to reveal the cosmos. But Copper Harbor (i.e. Michigan's northernmost community), it is that much further from any big-city light pollution.

Parting Thoughts

In terms of tourism, The Great Lake State is best known for its towns along Lake Michigan. Yes, the attractive beaches and fun-loving spirit warrants those summer crowds, but the Keweenaw Peninsula also deserves special consideration. It may entail longer drives and cooler temperatures, but the raw beauty and celebrated history of this isolated region are sure to deliver a satisfying, out-of-the-box adventure. I had never even thought about the Keweenaw Peninsula before my recent, vaguely westbound road trip, but now it will be forever etched on my travel radar.